The ARC (bicycle mounted) and ARC Cabeza (helmet mounted, as the name
implies) lights from Light and
Motion use a 13.5 watt Welch Allyn
Solarc metal halide arc lamp and either a NiMH battery or a 280
gram lighter Li-Ion battery. As I write this the NiMH version is
selling for around $410 and the Li-Ion for around $500. I have owned
a NiMH-equipped ARC Cabeza since last fall.
Miniature HID
lamps are a difficult and correspondingly expensive technology,
but are substantially more efficient than incandescent lamps. At best
incandescent lamps give little more than 20 lumens per watt, while the
small Solarc HID lamps manage 45 (perhaps more) lumens per watt. When
watts are cheap it may be hard to justify the breathtaking price of
the HID lamp, but when power comes from a battery strapped to your
body or your bicycle and carried under human power, the improvement in
efficiency is important.
This thing is bright. Not just compared to the 4-AA mini-lights but
even compared to most of the big and expensive halogen bicycle lights.
I never realized how much retroreflective
material was out there until I strapped a powerful light to my head.
With the high output and the small distance between lamp and eyes to
maximize the efficiency of retroreflectors, it seems the whole world
is retroreflective. The fact that many of these retroreflective
surfaces went unnoticed by me until I bought this light should be a
warning about the limits of reflectors.
The light pattern is a very wide, very even circle with a smaller,
also very even, much brighter central spot. The circular pattern
wastes light upward but does simplify the optics and ensures that the
light is clearly visible to others even if aimed downward. The wide
pattern both makes the user very visible to other road users and, in
unlighted areas, provides surprisingly useful peripheral light. It
avoids the tiny patch of light in a tunnel of darkness effect, and
makes it possible to see potential hazards that are off to the side.
The shear quantity of photons coming out of the lamp means that it is
not necessary to focus the beam tightly. There is plenty of light to
go around. The bright central spot seems to me to be just about
perfectly sized. This light really makes night riding routine. I
have ridden unfamiliar, unlighted roads at upward of 35 km/h and felt
reasonably safe doing so. That would seem absurdly reckless to me
with lesser lights. People see me, as well. Indeed, sometimes I can
almost see the question marks hovering over the cars as motorists
wonder just what that brightly lit object is.
Whenever HID bicycle lights are discussed some people always wonder if
the lights are dangerously bright, dazzling other road users. If only
the designers and operators of motor vehicles, with their far more
powerful lights powered by engine-driven electrical systems, were as
worried about blinding other people. Imagine how nice the roads would
be at night. This thing is less powerful than a single car headlight.
It is a very bright compared to the average bicycle light (as far as I
can tell, the typical bicycle light is no light at all), but it is not
really that bright compared to anything not powered by a little
battery pack. Certainly, if you walk up to someone and aim the
brightest part of the beam directly into that person’s eyes, you will
annoy that person. So don’t do that. In traffic, the other people
are farther away. The dim part of the beam, even at close range, is
not unreasonably bright. At across-the-intersection distances, even
the bright part of the beam, while very bright, is not going to set
anyone’s retinas on fire. I don’t recommend routinely flashing the
brightest part of the beam at people—the dimmer part should be
plenty noticeable—but if you do so by accident, or to get a
particularly inattentive person’s attention, no harm should come. No
one is really dark-adapted when driving in the first place, except
possibly in desolate areas. All
urban/suburban/rural-but-near-the-suburbs road users are frequently
flashed by the brightest part of car headlight beams, even with
properly adjusted lights, as dips, bumps, and hills shine the lights
into people’s eyes, and there are always the mis-aimed lights and the
people using the high beams inappropriately. I think the risk of
dazzling other people is greatly exaggerated. I find the
helmet-mounted light easy to control, with only trifling attention
required to keep the light pointed where I want it and out of people’s
eyes.
The system has the appearance of sturdy, high-quality equipment. The
company also makes underwater camera housings and dive lights, so one
hopes they understand water resistance, though I have not used it in
the rain (yet). The ballast electronics are integrated into the lamp
assembly, with the power cable permanently attached to the lamp. The
HID arc tube has a claimed median life of 1000 hours and is not
user replaceable. The battery connector has pins that while
fragile-looking have not caused me any trouble. The connector appears
waterproof and sturdy once connected. I added some markings to the
connectors with a white marking pen to aid alignment since the molded
arrows are very hard to see. The lamp is controlled by a single push
button on the back. A LED behind the button blinks to indicate low
power mode and blinks more rapidly as a low battery warning.
Double-click to turn it on, a single click switches between full
brightness and a slightly dimmer setting, and holding the button down
will shut the lamp off. All discharge lamps take time to warm up and
are difficult to restart when hot. This lamp takes several seconds to
warm up enough to produce significant light and perhaps 10–20 seconds
to produced full output. After shutdown it cools enough to restrike
quite quickly, less than 30 seconds. Part of the complexity and
expense of automotive
HID lights stems from the legal requirement to produce high light
output almost instantly and to reliably restrike from full operating
temperature. The ARC’s performance is perfectly adequate for a
bicycle light. Battery life is claimed to be three hours at full
power and 3.5 hours at low power. In informal testing this seemed
approximately correct. Light and Motion warn that the lamp is
designed to be cooled by the airflow of cycling and should not be
operated for more than 15 minutes without airflow over the unit.
There is no quick release between the lamp and the helmet mount, so
the Velcro-covered strap must be threaded through the helmet with each
use. Fortunately this is reasonably easy. A quick release would be
preferable, provided it was sturdy, easy to use, and light, which
might be a somewhat difficult combination to achieve. I think the
current arrangement is acceptable. The usual possibilities for
carrying the battery (jersey pocket, backpack) don’t work so well on a
recumbent. I have one of those orange reflective vests with pockets
and keep the battery secured in a pocket with elastic straps.
The standard charger shipped with the NiMH ARCs is excellent. It is a
proper NiMH charger, with dT/dt end-of-charge detection and, as far as
I can tell, a suitably low trickle charge rate once full charge is
reached. It can fully charge a fully discharged battery in 3.5 hours.
A short lead connects the charger to the battery, and a standard IEC
connector of the type found on computer gear connects the charger to
100–250 volts AC via the included cord. It’s really the minimum we
should expect for anything with NiMH batteries, especially relatively
expensive equipment, but good chargers are rare. Apparently most
manufacturers view selling replacements for batteries destroyed by bad
chargers a means to boost profits.
There are a great variety of bicycle lights of many types available.
Different cyclists have different needs and the very bright, very
expensive, battery powered lights are not suitable for all cyclists.
If you feel that very bright, very expensive is what you want, the
Light and Motion ARC series appears to be an excellent choice. I’m
very happy with mine.
For more information on lights and reflectors, as well as
safe cycling in general, I recommend
John Allen’s web site,
which has a bicycle
reflectors and lights section, and John Forester’s site, which
also has a nighttime
equipment section.